Costume Review: The Great Gatsby(2013)

Plot Summary:

The Great Gatsby(2013)-It’s the spring of 1922, and wide-eyed Midwesterner Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) has just moved to New York City in pursuit of the American Dream. Settling into a home next door to wealthy Jay Gatsby (Leonardo DiCaprio), Carraway grows increasingly fascinated by the elaborate parties held at his new neighbor’s estate. Meanwhile, across the bay, Carraway’s cousin Daisy (Carey Mulligan) flounders in her marriage to philandering aristocrat Tom Buchanan (Joel Edgerton). Inspired by the debauchery on display at Gatsby’s wild parties and the lives of the wealthy elite, Carraway begins putting pen to paper as it gradually becomes clear that his cousin and the millionaire share a complicated romantic past that remains unresolved..

About The Designer:

Catherine Martin (born 26 January 1965) is an Australian costume designer, production designer, set designer, and film producer. She won two Academy Awards for Moulin Rouge! in 2002 and another two for The Great Gatsby in 2014. Having won four Oscars, she is the most awarded Australian in Oscar history.

Costume Relevance to Story:

This movie is an adaption of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel “The Great Gatsby”. It delineates 1922’s New York, an era of decadence. The most common garments and accessories in 1920s were Hats, Flapper dresses, Fringe dresses,Tail and Trench coats, Tweed suits, Club collar shirts, Striped blazers. Undoubtedly, this movie has all of these but all are contemporary. Costumes are portrayed here are really exaggerated. If anyone likes to study 1920s New York fashion, Fantastic beast and where to find them(2016) and Speedy(1927) movies will help. The pearls, stones, diamond jewelries and accessories are sheer inspiration of 1920s style . Head gears are quite impressive.

Designing Facts:

Inspiration from Films, Mansions, and Archives

Designer Catherine Martin, along with her director husband Baz Luhrmann, immersed themselves in research for “The Great Gatsby.” They watched documentaries, explored Long Island’s golden age mansions, and studied anachronic archives from Prada and Brooks Brothers.

Body-Conscious and Sleeveless Dresses

Drawing inspiration from the 1928 film “Speedy,” Martin found inspiration for the film’s costumes. The dresses in the movie were predominantly body-conscious and sleeveless, reflecting the fashion of the time.

Sketches and Tear-Outs as References

Luhrmann would present Martin with sketches and torn-out magazine pages as references for the costume designs. This collaborative process helped shape the overall vision of the film’s fashion.

Comprehensive Costume Creation

Over 1,000 costumes were created exclusively for the film, with Brooks Brothers supplying 1,200 men’s suits. Prada collaborated by designing 40 background dresses and some of Daisy’s costumes, as well as providing archive designs for shoes, accessories, furs, and jewelry. Tiffany’s also contributed jewelry designs for Daisy.

Diverse and Creative Fashion of the 1920s

Martin emphasized that the 1920s were a time of diverse and creative fashion. From oriental-inspired garments to harem pants and flowing paisley robes, the era showcased a wide range of styles and cuts, from one-shouldered to strapless, and from bias to tailored.

Distinctive Party Themes and Color Palettes

The film featured two parties with contrasting themes. The elegant party incorporated black, silver, blue, metallic gold, and touches of pink. In contrast, the bad and tawdry party featured acrid colors to capture a different atmosphere.

Costume Details Reflecting Characters’ Personalities

The costumes played a crucial role in character development. Nick’s clothing style represented his privileged background, while Gatsby’s outfits evolved to reflect his pursuit of Daisy. Tom’s clothes showcased a rejection of European stuffiness and highlighted his wealth and athleticism.

Symbolism in Gatsby’s Attire

Gatsby’s attire underwent significant changes throughout the film. His vibrant pink suit symbolized his showmanship and desire to display his newfound wealth. In contrast, his final scene by the pool depicted him in a vulnerable state, dressed in a black swimsuit, emphasizing the tragic end to his dreams.

In summary, the costumes in “The Great Gatsby” were meticulously designed, drawing inspiration from various sources and reflecting the diverse fashion of the 1920s. The film showcased iconic styles, with attention to detail in conveying each character’s personality and development. Collaborations with prestigious designers such as Prada and Tiffany’s added a touch of modernity to the costumes, making them relevant and visually stunning for contemporary audiences. “The Great Gatsby” remains celebrated as one of the most stylish movies ever made.

Awards and Nominations:

Awards: Oscar, BAFTA Awards, Art Directors Guild, Australian Academy of Cinema and Television Arts (AACTA) Awards. Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards, Gold Derby Awards, International Online Cinema Awards (INOCA) 2014. Italian Online Movie Awards (IOMA), Online Film & Television Association, Phoenix Film Critics Society Awards, Seattle Film Critics Awards.

Nominations: Awards Circuit Community Awards, Costume Designers Guild Awards. International Online Cinema Awards (INOCA) 2013, Satellite Awards.