Costume Review: Cruella (2021)

The 2021 Disney live-action movie “Cruella” took audiences on a rollercoaster ride through fashion, rebellion, and the origins of one of Disney’s most iconic villains, Cruella de Vil. With its rich 1970s London backdrop, the movie’s costumes didn’t just dress the characters—they defined them. From the glamorous to the outrageous, the costume design was integral to showing Cruella’s transformation from a young, ambitious Estella to the notorious Cruella de Vil. In this detailed review, we will explore every aspect of the costume design that made the movie such a visual feast, from the creative mind behind the designs, to the symbolic use of color and fabric, and even what could be improved upon in the future. Let’s delve into the costume magic that turned “Cruella” into a sartorial spectacle.

Watch The Trailer

The Fashion World of “Cruella”

Set in the 1970s, a time when punk rock and counter-culture were taking over London, the movie’s fashion perfectly captures this rebellious spirit. The film is steeped in a world of fashion rivalry, with Estella (who later becomes Cruella) squaring off against the Baroness, a high-fashion designer who embodies tradition and the status quo. In this world, fashion isn’t just a form of self-expression—it’s a weapon, a way to stand out, to break the rules, and to challenge authority. This undercurrent of rebellion is stitched into every outfit, blending punk rock’s rough edges with haute couture elegance. Every piece worn by Cruella pushes boundaries, hinting at her chaotic and anarchic nature while contrasting sharply with the Baroness’s more controlled, elegant wardrobe.

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About the Designer

Jenny Beavan’s Background

Behind the incredible costume work in “Cruella” is Jenny Beavan, a name well-known in the costume design world. Beavan is a British costume designer who has won numerous accolades for her detailed, character-driven designs, including two Academy Awards before “Cruella.” Known for her ability to seamlessly blend period accuracy with imaginative creativity, she has worked on films like “Mad Max: Fury Road,” which featured futuristic apocalyptic fashion, and “A Room with a View,” a period drama with lush historical costumes. Her versatility as a designer shines in her ability to shift between different time periods and genres, always bringing a unique flair to her work.

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Previous Work in Costume Design

Jenny Beavan’s resume is nothing short of legendary, spanning over four decades in the film industry. Her work on films like “The King’s Speech,” “Gosford Park,” and “The Remains of the Day” showcased her attention to historical detail and her ability to use costumes as a tool to enhance storytelling. In “Mad Max: Fury Road,” her futuristic designs wowed audiences and won her another Oscar. Beavan’s deep understanding of how clothing can communicate a character’s inner world made her the perfect choice for “Cruella,” where fashion is not just part of the story, it is the story.

Inspiration for Cruella’s Looks

Beavan drew inspiration from the 1970s punk scene in London, a time when fashion was used as an act of rebellion. With this film, she had the challenge of blending high fashion with anarchic, punk-rock elements. From safety pins as jewelry to the use of deconstructed fabrics, Beavan’s designs embody the clash between old and new, tradition and disruption, much like Cruella’s character arc. The result is a wardrobe that is equal parts rebellious and glamorous, with every piece telling a part of Cruella’s journey from ambitious designer to fashion provocateur.

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Design Philosophy

Jenny Beavan’s design philosophy is rooted in the idea that costumes should reflect and enhance the story being told. For her, the clothing is not just decorative but an essential tool in conveying a character’s emotional state, development, and role in the narrative. In Cruella, Beavan wanted to show the evolution of Estella’s character through her clothing, illustrating her journey from a subdued, troubled orphan to the flamboyant and fearless Cruella de Vil. Her design approach embraced both the haute couture fashion of the time and the raw, anarchic energy of punk rock. Beavan sought to fuse these worlds together, creating a wardrobe that was larger than life, just like the character herself.

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Costume Designing Facts

The 1970s London Punk Influence

One of the most important influences on Cruella’s wardrobe is the 1970s punk movement in London. Punk fashion was about rejecting the norms of mainstream fashion, and it often involved the use of ripped clothing, leather, studs, and safety pins. This rebellious attitude is mirrored in Cruella’s costumes, especially as she starts to emerge as a fashion force against the traditionalist Baroness. Throughout the film, you see elements like ripped fabrics, oversized safety pins, and bold statements that break away from the norm, capturing the anti-establishment spirit of the punk era.

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Bold Color Choices and Symbolism

Color plays an essential role in Cruella’s costumes, with black, white, and red being the primary colors used throughout the film. These colors not only reflect her bold personality but also serve as visual metaphors for her internal conflict and transformation.

Black, White, and Red Dominance

Cruella’s signature black-and-white hair is mirrored in her clothing choices. Black often symbolizes her darker, more rebellious side, while white hints at her earlier, more innocent self, Estella. Red is used sparingly but effectively to represent power, passion, and danger. One of the most iconic red moments in the film is the fiery gown Cruella wears during the garbage truck scene. This bold use of color is not just visually striking—it speaks volumes about her character’s complexity and transformation.

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The Fabric Choices

The fabric choices in “Cruella” were another area where Beavan’s expertise truly shone. From luxurious silks to hard, gritty leather, every material served a purpose in communicating Cruella’s evolving identity. Early in the film, Estella’s clothes are more modest and functional, but as she embraces her darker side, her wardrobe evolves into a mix of high-fashion couture and punk aesthetics. Leather, especially, becomes a recurring element, symbolizing her toughness and willingness to rebel against fashion norms.

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Transformation of Estella to Cruella

One of the most fascinating aspects of the costume design in Cruella is how Estella’s wardrobe evolves as she embraces her darker alter ego. At the beginning of the movie, Estella is a meek, aspiring fashion designer, and her clothes reflect this. Her early outfits are practical, neutral-toned, and understated, symbolizing her struggle to fit into a world that doesn’t recognize her talent. However, as she transforms into Cruella, her clothing becomes more audacious, theatrical, and unmistakably bold. This transition is most clearly seen in the way her outfits grow more structured, with sharp tailoring and striking embellishments that announce her arrival as a force to be reckoned with. The costume shift mirrors her internal journey, from an underdog trying to survive to a villainous fashion visionary willing to defy all conventions.

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Use of Sustainable Fashion

An interesting behind-the-scenes detail about the costume design in Cruella is the emphasis on sustainability. Jenny Beavan and her team incorporated upcycled and vintage materials into many of the film’s iconic looks, in line with the punk rock ethos of reusing and repurposing. This approach not only aligned with the film’s setting in the 1970s, a time when environmentalism was gaining traction, but also resonates with contemporary concerns about the fashion industry’s impact on the environment. Beavan creatively utilized old garments, salvaged materials, and discarded fabrics to create new, high-fashion looks that were both stylish and eco-friendly. By making sustainability a key part of the design process, the costumes in Cruella send a subtle yet important message about the power of creativity and resourcefulness in fashion.

Designing Distinct Looks for Cruella and the Baroness

One of the most compelling visual elements in Cruella is the contrast between the fashion of Cruella and that of her nemesis, the Baroness. The Baroness, played by Emma Thompson, represents the old guard of fashion—her wardrobe is filled with elegant, structured couture pieces that reflect her status and control over the fashion world. Her outfits are polished, regal, and sophisticated, drawing inspiration from the classic styles of the 1950s and 1960s. In stark contrast, Cruella’s outfits are wild, unpredictable, and boundary-pushing. Her use of bold colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and experimental materials signals her desire to upend the established order and bring something fresh and revolutionary to the world of fashion. This contrast between the two characters’ wardrobes highlights the central conflict of the film—old vs. new, control vs. rebellion, tradition vs. innovation.

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Iconic Costume Moments

The Red Dress with Flames

One of the most unforgettable moments in Cruella is when she makes a jaw-dropping entrance at a black-and-white gala wearing a striking red dress. The gown is designed to be a direct contrast to the event’s strict black-and-white dress code, a bold statement of Cruella’s defiance. However, the real showstopper occurs when the dress catches fire (thanks to a clever special effect), burning away the red fabric to reveal a dramatic black gown underneath. This iconic outfit symbolizes Cruella’s emergence as a fashion force to be reckoned with, and it embodies her rebellious spirit and flair for the dramatic. The red flame dress not only wows the audience within the film but also viewers, cementing its place as one of the most memorable costumes in recent cinematic history.

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The Dumpster Dress Scene

One of the film’s most memorable moments is when Cruella crashes the Baroness’s black-and-white ball by arriving in a garbage truck, only to reveal a stunning red gown underneath. This moment was not just about fashion—it was a declaration of Cruella’s arrival on the fashion scene. The gown itself, with its voluminous skirt and dramatic train, was both a nod to old Hollywood glamour and a rebellious twist on the black-and-white theme of the ball. It was a perfect representation of Cruella’s defiance and her desire to upstage the Baroness.

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The Military-Inspired Ensemble

One of Cruella’s most powerful looks is her military-inspired ensemble, which she wears during a critical turning point in the film. The sharp lines, bold epaulets, and structured tailoring give the outfit a commanding presence, symbolizing her declaration of war against the Baroness. This costume blends elements of authority and rebellion, with the military styling signifying Cruella’s newfound confidence and strategic mindset. The black leather, silver detailing, and punk-inspired accessories elevate the outfit into something that’s both intimidating and chic. This look is a visual representation of Cruella’s decision to fight for her place in the fashion world, marking her full transformation into the cunning, ambitious character we know from Disney lore.

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The Baroness’s Collection vs. Cruella’s Vision

Throughout the film, we see a stark contrast between the Baroness’s traditional, structured designs and Cruella’s more avant-garde creations. The Baroness’s wardrobe is a study in classic elegance, with a strong focus on structure, symmetry, and muted colors. In contrast, Cruella’s designs are bold, asymmetrical, and full of surprises. This fashion rivalry between the two characters is not just about style—it reflects their differing worldviews. The Baroness represents the old guard, while Cruella is the rebellious upstart, challenging the established order with every outfit she wears.

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Thematic Importance of the Costumes

How Costumes Reflect Character Development

The progression of Estella’s wardrobe from modest, functional clothing to the bold, daring outfits of Cruella is a visual representation of her internal journey. As Estella grapples with her identity and slowly gives in to her darker, more assertive side, her clothing becomes more extravagant and theatrical. Each outfit marks a stage in her evolution, with her growing confidence and willingness to take risks reflected in her increasingly avant-garde designs. The costumes are not just accessories; they are a central part of the character’s narrative, illustrating her transformation from a timid young woman into a fearless and rebellious fashion icon.

Costumes as a Visual Storytelling Device

In Cruella, the costumes do more than just decorate the characters—they help drive the story forward. Each piece of clothing Cruella wears is imbued with meaning, whether it’s a statement of defiance, a reflection of her emotional state, or a symbolic moment of transformation. The use of fashion as a storytelling device is particularly effective in a film centered on the fashion world, and Jenny Beavan’s designs masterfully serve this dual purpose. Whether Cruella is making a grand entrance in a flame-covered dress or parading in a gown made from trash, each outfit tells the audience something about her character and her journey.

The Challenges in Designing for “Cruella”

Working Under Time Constraints

Designing over 40 distinct looks for Emma Stone’s Cruella, along with the other characters in the film, was no small feat. Jenny Beavan and her team had to work under tight time constraints to ensure that each costume was crafted to perfection, despite the film’s demanding production schedule. This involved not only creating new designs from scratch but also sourcing fabrics, working with tailors, and ensuring that each outfit fit seamlessly into the character’s arc and the overall visual aesthetic of the film. Despite these challenges, Beavan succeeded in delivering a wardrobe that was as visually striking as it was narratively important.

Balancing Historical and Modern Influences

One of the most challenging aspects of designing costumes for Cruella was finding the right balance between historical accuracy and modern appeal. The film is set in 1970s London, and the costumes needed to reflect the fashion trends of that time while still feeling fresh and innovative for modern audiences. Jenny Beavan expertly blended period-appropriate elements with contemporary influences, resulting in a wardrobe that feels both timeless and cutting-edge. This delicate balance helped ensure that the costumes in Cruella would resonate with audiences both in terms of their historical authenticity and their relevance to today’s fashion landscape.

Attention to Detail

Vintage vs. Modern Fusion

One of the most brilliant aspects of the costume design in “Cruella” is the fusion of vintage and modern elements. Beavan expertly combines historical fashion references with contemporary, punk-inspired details to create a look that is both timeless and cutting-edge. This fusion can be seen in many of Cruella’s outfits, where classic silhouettes are updated with modern fabrics, bold patterns, and unexpected accessories. The result is a wardrobe that feels fresh and innovative, while still paying homage to the past.

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The Jewelry and Accessories

Accessories play a crucial role in completing Cruella’s look. From oversized, chunky necklaces to layers of rings and bracelets, each piece of jewelry is carefully selected to enhance the character’s rebellious, larger-than-life persona. The use of safety pins as earrings or brooches, for example, is a nod to punk culture, while the more opulent pieces reflect her growing confidence and ambition.

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Makeup and Hair as Part of the Look

Cruella’s bold makeup and signature two-tone hair are as much a part of her look as her clothes. The exaggerated eye makeup, often with heavy eyeliner and dramatic shadow, mirrors the rebellious nature of her costumes. Her iconic black-and-white hair, meanwhile, serves as a visual reminder of the duality within her character—the constant tug-of-war between her Estella and Cruella personas. These elements, along with the costumes, work together to create a fully realized, larger-than-life character.

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Awards and Nominations

Recognition at the Oscars

The costumes in “Cruella” were so spectacular that they earned Jenny Beavan an Academy Award for Best Costume Design at the 2022 Oscars. The award was a recognition not just of the beauty and creativity of the designs but of how integral they were to the film’s storytelling. Every outfit in “Cruella” served a purpose, helping to illustrate the character’s transformation and her growing rivalry with the Baroness.

BAFTA and Other Prestigious Nods

In addition to winning the Oscar, “Cruella” was also nominated for and won several other prestigious awards, including a BAFTA for Best Costume Design. The film’s costumes received widespread acclaim for their inventiveness, their attention to detail, and their ability to blend historical references with modern, punk-influenced styles. These awards highlighted Jenny Beavan’s extraordinary talent and her ability to bring fashion to the forefront of cinematic storytelling.

Public Reception of the Costumes

Critical Acclaim

The costumes in Cruella were universally praised by critics and audiences alike. Many reviewers noted that the wardrobe was one of the most impressive aspects of the film, with some even arguing that the costumes were the true stars of the movie. The bold, theatrical designs captured the spirit of the character and helped elevate the film beyond a typical Disney origin story. Fans of fashion and film alike were mesmerized by the creativity and attention to detail that went into each look, and the costumes became one of the most talked-about elements of Cruella.

Influence on Modern Fashion

Since the release of Cruella, the film’s costumes have had a noticeable impact on modern fashion trends. The punk-inspired looks, in particular, have seen a resurgence, with designers and fashion houses taking cues from the film’s blend of rebellion and high fashion. Elements like bold colors, sharp tailoring, and unconventional materials have appeared in collections from some of the world’s top designers, proving that Cruella’s influence extends beyond the screen and into the world of real-world fashion.

Costume to Improve

Possible Enhancements in the Sequel

While the costume design in “Cruella” was exceptional, there’s always room for growth, especially in future films. A sequel could provide an opportunity to push the boundaries of fashion even further, perhaps incorporating more elements from modern haute couture or exploring new color palettes. While the punk-inspired designs were fitting for the 1970s setting, a new film set in a different era could allow for more experimentation with styles and trends.

More Character-Driven Wardrobe Evolution

Another area for potential improvement could be a more in-depth exploration of how Cruella’s costumes evolve as she grows into her villainous persona. While the first film did an excellent job of showing her transformation, a sequel could delve even deeper into the psychological aspects of her wardrobe choices, using fashion to reflect her changing motivations and desires. This could involve incorporating more thematic elements into the designs, such as using certain fabrics or patterns to symbolize her inner conflicts.

Cruella Costume Review at a Glance:

Section	Key Points
Fashion World of “Cruella”	– Set in 1970s London; fashion reflects rebellion and rivalry. – Costumes define character transformation from Estella to Cruella.
About the Designer	Jenny Beavan’s Background – British costume designer with two Academy Awards. – Known for period accuracy and creativity.
	Previous Work – Worked on “Mad Max: Fury Road,” “The King’s Speech,” and more. – Deep understanding of character-driven design.
	Inspiration – Influenced by 1970s punk scene. – Blended high fashion with punk elements.
Design Philosophy	-Uses costumes to enhance character development and storytelling. -Fuses punk rock rebellion with high fashion.
Costume Designing Facts	1970s Punk Influence – Punk fashion symbolizes rebellion; reflected in Cruella’s outfits.
	Color Choices – Dominant colors: black, white, and red symbolize internal conflict and character evolution.
	Fabric Choices – Variety of fabrics: luxurious silks, leather, etc. – Represent Cruella’s transformation.
Transformation of Estella to Cruella	-Estella’s practical, neutral-toned outfits transition into bold, theatrical designs. -Costumes mirror her inner transformation.
Use of Sustainable Fashion	-Incorporated upcycled and vintage materials. -Aligned with 1970s environmentalism and modern sustainable fashion trends.
Iconic Costume Moments	Red Dress with Flames -Bold entrance with a dress that catches fire, revealing a sleek black gown. Dumpster Dress Scene – Stunning red gown reveals her dramatic entrance. Military Ensemble -Black leather outfit symbolizing her declaration of war against the Baroness.
Distinct Looks for Cruella & Baroness	Fashion Rivalry – Contrast between Baroness’s traditional designs and Cruella’s avant-garde creations.
Thematic Importance of Costumes	– Costumes reflect character growth. – Wardrobes serve as a visual storytelling tool.
Challenges in Designing	– Over 40 looks for Cruella under tight deadlines. – Balance of historical accuracy with modern fashion appeal.
Attention to Detail	Vintage vs. Modern Fusion – Seamless blend of historical references with contemporary punk elements.
	Jewelry and Accessories – Unique accessories enhance character’s rebellious persona.
	Makeup and Hair – Bold makeup and two-tone hair are integral to Cruella’s look.
Awards and Nominations	Recognition at the Oscars – Won Academy Award for Best Costume Design in 2022.
	BAFTA and Other Awards – Received nominations and wins for various prestigious awards.
Public Reception	-Universal critical acclaim. -Influenced modern fashion with a resurgence of punk-inspired couture.
Costume to Improve	Possible Enhancements – Opportunities for more experimentation in a potential sequel.
	Character-Driven Wardrobe Evolution – Explore deeper psychological aspects of wardrobe choices in future films.
Conclusion	– Costumes are essential to storytelling, reflecting character transformation. – Fashion in “Cruella” is a bold, artistic statement.
FAQs	1. Who designed the costumes? Jenny Beavan. 2. Inspiration for costumes? 1970s punk movement. 3. Awards won? Academy Award, BAFTA. 4. Significance of colors? Symbolize inner conflict. 5. Sequel status? Rumored but not officially announced.

Conclusion

In “Cruella,” fashion is not just a backdrop—it’s a character in its own right. Jenny Beavan’s stunning costume designs play a pivotal role in the film, helping to tell the story of Estella’s transformation into the iconic Cruella de Vil. From the punk-inspired looks to the luxurious high-fashion gowns, each outfit is a reflection of Cruella’s rebellious, larger-than-life personality. The costumes not only capture the spirit of 1970s London but also push the boundaries of fashion, blending old and new, tradition and rebellion. It’s no wonder that the film’s costumes were recognized with numerous awards, including an Academy Award for Best Costume Design. As we look forward to a potential sequel, it will be exciting to see how Cruella’s wardrobe continues to evolve and defy expectations.

FAQs

1. Who designed the costumes in “Cruella”? Jenny Beavan, a two-time Academy Award-winning costume designer, was behind the film’s iconic looks.
2. What was the main inspiration for Cruella’s costumes? The costumes were heavily influenced by the 1970s punk rock movement in London, blending rebellion with high fashion.
3. What awards did the “Cruella” costumes win? The costumes won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design and several other prestigious awards, including a BAFTA.
4. What was the significance of the colors black, white, and red in Cruella’s outfits? These colors symbolized Cruella’s inner conflict, with black representing her darker side, white her earlier innocence, and red symbolizing power and danger.
5. Will there be a sequel to “Cruella”? While no official announcements have been made, a sequel is rumored, and it could bring even more fashion-forward designs to the screen.