Costume Review: Anna Karenina(2012)

Plot Summary:

In 1874, in the Imperial Russia, the aristocratic Anna Karenina travels from Saint Petersburg to Moscow to save the marriage of her brother Prince Oblonsky, who had had a love affair with his housemaid. Anna Karenina has a cold marriage with her husband, Count Alexei Karenin, and they have a son. Anna meets the cavalry officer Count Vronsky at the train station and they feel attracted by each other. Soon she learns that Vronsky will propose to Kitty, who is the younger sister of her sister-in-law Dolly. Anna satisfactorily resolves the unfaithful case of her brother and Kitty invites her to stay for the ball. However, Anna Karenina and Vronsky dance in the ball, calling the attention of the conservative society. Soon they have a love affair that will lead Anna Karenina to a tragic fate.

About The Designer:

Jacqueline Durran is a British costume designer. She received considerable attention for her work on Pride & Prejudice, for which she received both an Academy Award for Best Costume Design and BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design nominations. J. Durran won an Academy Award for her work on Anna Karenina, and has been nominated six times for the award. She has also been nominated eight times for a BAFTA Award, winning for Vera Drake and Anna Karenina. Durran has been a frequent collaborator with directors Mike Leigh and Joe Wright, having designed the costumes for six times on Leigh and Wright’s films.

Costume Relevance to the Story:

Anna Karenina(2012) is a historical drama and romantic movie based on Russ writer Leo Tolstoy’s novel “Anna Karenina”. It is a story of 1870s deployed in Russia. Costumes are not precisely made as they are described on novel. Because, the director Joe Wright did not want to have exact 1870s fashion on characters. Following this, designer Jaqueline Durran made the costumes amalgamation of 1870s and 1950s silhouette. Colors applied on the costumes, meticulously depict character and situation. Details used on the garments rigorously specify the characters and their social status. Besides, it has exquisite collections of hat.

Designing Facts:

Anna Karenina’s Costume: A Fusion of 50s Couture and 1870s Silhouette

Costume designer Jacqueline Durran’s vision for Anna Karenina’s costumes in the film adaptation involved blending elements of 50s couture with the silhouette of the 1870s. Drawing inspiration from Leo Tolstoy’s descriptions in the book, Durran added whimsical touches to the ensembles. Asymmetrical, Balenciaga-inspired bodices, exquisite Chanel diamond and pearl accessories worth $2 million, and stunning veils were incorporated into the costumes. The veils were so beautiful that the director instructed Keira Knightley, who portrayed Anna Karenina, to keep them pulled over her face in certain scenes.

Countess Vronsky’s Neck Gear: A Striking Addition

The character of Countess Vronsky, portrayed as an aging beauty, required a captivating neck accessory. Durran crafted a fantastic neck gear specifically for her character, adding an intriguing element to her overall appearance.

Karenin’s Minimalist Costume: Simplicity as a Symbol of Power

The costume for Karenin, played by Jude Law, was designed to reflect his character’s power. Karenin believed that simplicity and minimalism in one’s attire signify great authority. Durran incorporated this idea by creating a completely plain tunic for Karenin, devoid of any intricate details. This concept was further extended to his dressing-gown and night shirt, emphasizing his character’s personality.

The Symbolism of Colors and Styles for Characters

The article highlights the significance of colors and styles in representing the characters’ journeys. Anna wore a striking red dress at a party where she began her affair with Count Vronsky. Kitty, initially portrayed as a child debutante, wore a white dress with pink rosettes, evolving into more sophisticated colors as she grew up. The military costumes for Count Vronsky were inspired by Russian uniforms of the era. Additionally, Princess Betsy Tverskoy’s attire drew influence from Japanese geishas, featuring sculptural shapes. The costumes played a vital role in visually depicting the characters’ roles, statuses, and transformations.

Overall, the costumes in the film Anna Karenina were meticulously designed and researched to accurately capture the essence of the characters and the time period. The fusion of 50s couture with the 1870s silhouette, along with the attention to detail and symbolism, created visually stunning ensembles that complemented the poetic and surreal adaptation of Leo Tolstoy’s saga by director Joe Wright.

Awards and Nominations:

Awards: Oscar, BAFTA Awards, Awards Circuit Community Awards. Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards. Cinema Bloggers Awards, Portugal. Costume Designers Guild Awards. Evening Standard British Film Awards. Gold Derby Awards. International Online Cinema Awards (INOCA). Las Vegas Film Critics Society Awards. Online Film & Television Association. Phoenix Film Critics Society Awards.

Nominations: Academy of Science Fiction, Fantasy & Horror Films, USA. Satellite Awards.